Occasionally honeybees need to get fed, either to build up small or weak colonies or to stave off starvation when there is no nectar to forage on or they have eaten all the honey in the hive. Some beekeepers also feed their bees in autumn after the honey harvest to make sure the colonies are going into winter with lots off food in the hive. Not everyone agrees with feeding bees, and that is ok. The morality of feeding bees is not what is up for discussion in this post, I’ll save that for another day. However, what I am going to tell you, is how to make syrup if you decide to feed your bees for whatever reason.
The first secret, is that it is really straight forward to make syrup. Beginners often think it is complicated, because we’re talking about ratios and different sugars and different feeders. But it is dead simple.
Sugar : Water Ratios
The most common type of feed for bees is syrup. Either thin syrup, which is a 1:1 ratio of sugar to water, or thick syrup, which has a 2:1 ratio of sugar to water. You can measure by weight or by volume, it really does not matter. What matters is that you use the right type of sugar, that you do not over heat it or store it for a prolonged time, and that you make the type of syrup that is appropriate for that time of year (the most tricky part…).
What Sugar to Use for Syrup
To make syrup, you should use white granulated sugar. Stay away from other sugars such as molasses and brown sugar as they contain substances that bees cannot digest. Brown sugar can contribute to bees developing dysentery. Because bees are often confined to the hive in the winter, this can lead to other issues as the bees relieve themselves outside the hive. So, stay clear of brown sugar.
(High Fructose Corn Syrup is debatable as appropriate food for honeybees. In some countries it is used on a large scale. However, it is said that HFCS can cause damage to the gut of the honeybee, and it has been listed as one of the contributing factors in mass bee deaths. Until the jury has declared it completely safe and beneficial, perhaps it would be advisable to steer clear of syrups containing corn syrup as they may be harmful to our bees.)
How to Make Syrup
Syrup is made by mixing warm water with white granulated sugar, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. You can boil the water before mixing with the sugar, but do not boil the syrup as it changes the chemical makeup of the syrup. Instead keep stirring until dissolved.
Syrup does not store well, so make it up as you need it. This is especially true for 1:1 or thin syrup, as it would tend to ferment due to its high moisture content.
Difference between 1:1 and 2:1 Syrup
1:1 syrup is a light feed which mimics a nectar flow. There is a lot of water in this solution, so this should only be done in spring to encourage the queen to start laying, during the summer if supporting small or weak colonies (obviously not production colonies as they may put it in the supers), or during a nectar dearth to ensure the queen keeps laying. It should never be given in the winter part of the year as the moisture content is too high and the conditions are too cold for the bees to process it. 2:1 Syrup is a thick syrup that should only be given after harvest. It contains less water because the bees will store it in the hive to use over winter, and the lesser moisture content makes lighter work for the bees, who will have to dry it out.
Syrup Feeders
The syrup is dispensed trough a feeder and there are many different types of those available. The most widely used ones are the rapid feeder and the contact feeder. However, you can also use a frame feeder when feeding smaller amounts. Some hives, particularly polystyrene nucs have a built-in feeder that will cater for syrup and fondant. For best results, make sure hives are level, feed in late afternoon or evening. Also make sure not to spill or overfill as it may lead to robbing.
Hanna Bäckmo is an award-winning beekeeper, entrepreneur, hobby gardener and internationally published writer. Originally from a small island in Sweden, she now lives in East Cork with her son, two dogs, a flock of rescue chickens and lots of bees. Hanna is the founder of Hanna’s Bees, producing a unique range of natural and sustainable honey, propolis, and beeswax products sold in Ireland’s leading Gift & Artisan food stores and select US outlets. With 70 colonies of Native Irish honeybees, she is a passionate bee-advocate and educator and is an Ambassador for the Native Irish Honeybee.
Curious about the world of bees and honey? Join our newsletter to learn something new each week.
Keeping a hive of honeybees at the end of the garden might sound like a lovely, relaxing, wholesome experience. Perhaps you’re dreaming about bees buzzing around the garden collecting nectar all summer long, and then getting a few pots of sweet honey at the end of the year. Sounds wonderful, right?
Harvesting propolis does not harm bees if approached with care. Its volatile nature ensures that bees are constantly replenishing it, and beekeepers can safely collect surplus from seasonal honey supers or traps. By respecting the brood nest and winter stores, we can enjoy the benefits of propolis while allowing bees to maintain the powerful natural defenses that underpin their health.
BEEKEEPING TIP: How to Make Syrup for Bees
Occasionally honeybees need to get fed, either to build up small or weak colonies or to stave off starvation when there is no nectar to forage on or they have eaten all the honey in the hive. Some beekeepers also feed their bees in autumn after the honey harvest to make sure the colonies are going into winter with lots off food in the hive. Not everyone agrees with feeding bees, and that is ok. The morality of feeding bees is not what is up for discussion in this post, I’ll save that for another day. However, what I am going to tell you, is how to make syrup if you decide to feed your bees for whatever reason.
The first secret, is that it is really straight forward to make syrup. Beginners often think it is complicated, because we’re talking about ratios and different sugars and different feeders. But it is dead simple.
Sugar : Water Ratios
The most common type of feed for bees is syrup. Either thin syrup, which is a 1:1 ratio of sugar to water, or thick syrup, which has a 2:1 ratio of sugar to water. You can measure by weight or by volume, it really does not matter. What matters is that you use the right type of sugar, that you do not over heat it or store it for a prolonged time, and that you make the type of syrup that is appropriate for that time of year (the most tricky part…).
What Sugar to Use for Syrup
To make syrup, you should use white granulated sugar. Stay away from other sugars such as molasses and brown sugar as they contain substances that bees cannot digest. Brown sugar can contribute to bees developing dysentery. Because bees are often confined to the hive in the winter, this can lead to other issues as the bees relieve themselves outside the hive. So, stay clear of brown sugar.
(High Fructose Corn Syrup is debatable as appropriate food for honeybees. In some countries it is used on a large scale. However, it is said that HFCS can cause damage to the gut of the honeybee, and it has been listed as one of the contributing factors in mass bee deaths. Until the jury has declared it completely safe and beneficial, perhaps it would be advisable to steer clear of syrups containing corn syrup as they may be harmful to our bees.)
How to Make Syrup
Syrup is made by mixing warm water with white granulated sugar, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. You can boil the water before mixing with the sugar, but do not boil the syrup as it changes the chemical makeup of the syrup. Instead keep stirring until dissolved.
Syrup does not store well, so make it up as you need it. This is especially true for 1:1 or thin syrup, as it would tend to ferment due to its high moisture content.
Difference between 1:1 and 2:1 Syrup
1:1 syrup is a light feed which mimics a nectar flow. There is a lot of water in this solution, so this should only be done in spring to encourage the queen to start laying, during the summer if supporting small or weak colonies (obviously not production colonies as they may put it in the supers), or during a nectar dearth to ensure the queen keeps laying. It should never be given in the winter part of the year as the moisture content is too high and the conditions are too cold for the bees to process it. 2:1 Syrup is a thick syrup that should only be given after harvest. It contains less water because the bees will store it in the hive to use over winter, and the lesser moisture content makes lighter work for the bees, who will have to dry it out.
Syrup Feeders
The syrup is dispensed trough a feeder and there are many different types of those available. The most widely used ones are the rapid feeder and the contact feeder. However, you can also use a frame feeder when feeding smaller amounts. Some hives, particularly polystyrene nucs have a built-in feeder that will cater for syrup and fondant. For best results, make sure hives are level, feed in late afternoon or evening. Also make sure not to spill or overfill as it may lead to robbing.
Making syrup to feed bees in Autumn? Read this blog for all you need to know about post-harvest feeding: How to Feed Bees in Autumn – Beginner’s Guide
Hanna Bäckmo
Curious about the world of bees and honey? Join our newsletter to learn something new each week.
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Keeping a hive of honeybees at the end of the garden might sound like a lovely, relaxing, wholesome experience. Perhaps you’re dreaming about bees buzzing around the garden collecting nectar all summer long, and then getting a few pots of sweet honey at the end of the year. Sounds wonderful, right?
Well, beekeeping isn’t really like that.
Does Harvesting Propolis Harm Bees?
Harvesting propolis does not harm bees if approached with care. Its volatile nature ensures that bees are constantly replenishing it, and beekeepers can safely collect surplus from seasonal honey supers or traps. By respecting the brood nest and winter stores, we can enjoy the benefits of propolis while allowing bees to maintain the powerful natural defenses that underpin their health.